Introduction

India is a diversified country having varied range of cultures and customs. The Indian art and craft have become world famous. There is huge demand of Indian embroidered garments cheap lace wigs. There is huge variety of embroideries done in India, here are few of them which have got more fame in terms of popularity in international market : -

Zardozi embroidery

Zardozi work is an ancient form of embroidery basically done with gold or silver zari threads. It is also known as metal embroidery. Although now-a-days it is also done with colored metal threads. The word 'Zardozi' is derived by combining two words Zar and Dozi which in Persian language means gold and embroidery respectively ED Hardy. Therefore it is clear that this art of embroidery was originated in Persia which was bought to India by Moghuls. Initially it was done with real metal threads of gold and silver. It was done on clothes for the rich and royal, wall hangings, bedsheets, etc. In between the application of pearls and precious stones looks stunning on it. Basically it is done on silk, crepe, brocade and velvet fabrics. Zardozi embroidery saw its decline during the reign of Aurangzeb. It was revived after the independence.

Zardozi work is an extension of zari embroidery which is done with crochet hook. The embroidery done gives the appearance of chain stitch. The things required for doing zardozi are beads, dabka, coiled wires, sequins, etc.

As zardozi is done with coiled metal wires studded with stones, beads, etc is heavy in weight therefore is done on fabrics that are thick and heavy like silk, velvet, stain, crepe, etc. Thus the choice of fabrics is also royal and expensive. The design to be done is first traced on the fabric, then it is spread on the wooden frame. Further the embroidery is done by picking up single thread in the needle and sewing it into the cloth. This art requires patience and is quite complicated. Expertise is required to do it properly.

Earlier zardozi was done on wearable garments and bedspreads mainly for royal families. But now it has got into the reach of common people also. Clothes with zardozi are an integral part for any wedding or important functions as it depicts royalty. Apart from wearable garments, zardozi is also done on cushion covers, table cloths lace wigs, wall hangings, fabric purses, etc. This embroidery is a costly affair.

Mirror Embroidery

Mirror embroidery is the specialty of Gujarat state. This work also originated in Persia during 13th century. Mirror work is never done alone, it is generally in combination with other types of stitches or embroideries. This embroidery is done with both large and small mirrors. Basically it was more utilized by Jats community. It is embroidered using colorful threads like red, green, blue, yellow, black, maroon, etc.

This art apart from Gujarat state is also practiced in neighboring state of Rajasthan and in appliqué art of Orissa. Many different types of stitches like cross stitch, buttonhole stitch and satin stitch are used in its combination. This art is often done by the aid of machine embroidery, but in some places it is still done through hand work which is more time consuming and a costly affair in comparison to the former technique. The mirrors used are of different shapes and sizes like round shape, diamond shape, square shape, etc. However round shape is the most common shape of mirrors used in this form of embroidery.

Mirror work is done on different fabrics and types of garments. Apart from ethnic garments it is crafted even on indo western clothes. It has huge demand in western countries. Mirror work is done on cushion covers, purses, bedsheets, curtains, wearable garments, wall hangings, decorative items, laces, etc. This embroidery has also seen the limelight of international ramp shows too.

Kantha Embroidery

Kantha is the traditional form of embroidery of West Bengal. It is running style of stitch. The embroidery is done on many layers of cloth. It is done on quilts, bedsheets, blankets, saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc.

It is also known as 'Dorukha'. This word means making worn out garments into beautiful garments. Therefore it is also known as recycling art. In earlier times the worn out silk or muslin clothes where used to be put in piles and stitched together. It is believed that its date of origin lies during the era of Lord Buddha. They used to drape themselves with rags of clothes that were stitched together.

The artists usually embroidery images of human beings, animals, flowers, geometric designs and mythological figures. Generally the worker selects the figure of embroidery to which they relate to. There are different types of kantha done- Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha and Oaar kantha.

Different types of patterns like jaal, folk life designs, dhan chori, etc are done in kantha embroidery. The rural women of West Bengal usually do it on cotton saris with thread taken from the borders of the sari and done all over.

Chikankari Embroidery

The state of Uttar Pradesh especially the city of Lucknow is considered to be the hub of Chikankari embroidery. Chikankari is derived from the word Chakeen that means elegant patterns on the fabric which is a Persian word. Earlier it was done with white thread on muslin clothes. However now it is been done on various types of fabrics like cotton, linen nylon, georgette, chiffon and synthetic fabrics. Apart from wearable garments it is also done on various other things like curtains, bedsheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers.

Unlike earlier times it is not only done on white colored cloths but also fabrics of various colors. But the thread used for the embroidery is generally white. Various motifs are embroidered through it like floral motifs which include flowers like rose, lotus, jasmine, creepers, etc.

There are many types of stitches used to make beautiful chikankari embroidery like chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and running stitch. The most beautiful is the motif having design created in the form of net or jhali all over the garment by generating thread tension. Shadow work is also done by chikan embroidery which is done on the opposite side of the garment.

There are three types of chikankari stitches ;

1) Jali work - It is done in the form of net design spread all over the fabric.

2) Flat stitches - The flat stitches are delicate and very fine stitch. It gives the look as if the embroidery is itself the texture of the garment.

3) Embossed stitches - This stitch provides beaded type of look to the garment.

In international apparel market also the demand of chikankari embroidered garments have seen a steep rise. The artisans of Uttar Pradesh earn foreign currency for the country. Many high profile designers intricate this form of art in their collections.

Conclusion

India is very rich in terms of art and crafts because of different communities and culture of its people. The above was just a glimpse of four the many types of embroidery art present in India. These arts have acclaimed international fame and are in great demand in western countries. After independence these arts were revived by the Indian government which improved the declining situation of the Indian embroideries. The main support came from the Indian government.

Georgian Period: 1714-1830- The Georgian period used naturalistic designs of leaves, birds, ribbons, feathers, flowers and insects in engraved gemstones. Intaglio was employed in gemstone design. Cameo brooches were once again featured and earrings saw a rise in popularity with semi-precious stones embellishing these designs links of london . Amethyst, turquoise, garnets and coveted pearls were seen in Georgian pieces.

Early Victorian Period: 1837-1860- The Gothic Revival Movement featured religious sentiment and enameled jewelry reflected these ideals. Floral sprays, animal themes and multicolored metal work came into prominence.

Mid-Victorian(Grand) Period: 1860-1885- Etruscan frame designs were employed in setting elaborate multi-colored stone jewelry. Rosettes, seashells, mosaics and fringes became extremely popular. In 1861, Prince Albert's death spawned the omnipresence of jet, Balenciaga Handbags a hard, black semi-precious stone able to be polished to a high sheen, in response and in mourning of the Prince's passing. Lockets, chains, brooches and cuff bracelets were in vogue in the 1880's.

Late Victorian (Aesthetic) Period: 1885-1900- This was the age of the diamond. Authentic birds, claws and scarabs were used and set in gold, bronze or silver, changing the symbolism of these time-honored ornamentations. Exquisite pendants with pearls and varicolored stones were used in the late 1880's.

Arts and Crafts Movement: 1894-1923- The Arts and Crafts Exhibitions Society was formed in 1888 in opposition to the mass-production ideals of the Industrial Revolution, preferring instead to keep their workmanship generalized. These craftsmen utilized brilliantly colored uncut stones and created metalwork of silver.

Art Nouveau Period: 1890-1915- Frenchman Rene Jules Lalique and American Louis Comfort Tiffany were the leading Art Nouveau jewelry makers of the time. Art Nouveau was fantastical and stylized, using many flowing and feminine elements of vines, leaves, birds, scrolls, serpents, insects and flowers in its design. A transparent enamel, evening Dresses Plique-a-jour, was often employed without a metal backing for light dispersion. Scrolling gold work, pearls and cabochon gemstones were used in very elaborate and romantic period.

Edwardian Period: 1901-1910- Extremely feminine and lacy jewelry with motifs of ribbons, stars, crescents, bows and wreaths of petite flowers gave the Edwardian jewelry its delicate impression. Many pieces of jewelry of this period have an all-white look, due to inclusion of platinum gold, diamonds, pearls and moonstones. Large colored gemstones were also center pieces in jewelry design.

Art Deco Period: 1920-1935- 1925's Cubism movement highly influenced this period of jewelry design with geometrical patterns and angular forms. Diamonds, platinum and gemstones cut into pentagons, trapezoids and triangles figured prominently. Cardinal gemstones (rubies, sapphires, emeralds) and onyx were set against diamonds for stark contrast. Far East jade and coral and Indian Cardinal stones influenced the design of earrings, bracelets and pendants. Leading designers were Cartier, Van Cleef and Arpels, Maubousiin, Bucheron, Tiffany & Co. and Harry Winston came to prominence.

Retro Period: 1935-1949- During this pre and post war period, much of the precious metals were melted down for war funds. White metals were surpassed by yellow, pink and green golds, often mixed together in jewelry pieces. A patriotic look was developed using rubies, sapphires and diamonds, sometimes synthesized and jewelry fell out of favor once the US entered the war in 1941. Three dimensional, sculptural ribbon, bows and folds of metal became popular.

Lost wax casting is an ancient art. The technique was first employed by the early Egyptians but it was also independently discovered and used tribal artists in South America who used it to cast pre-Columbian gold. It was rediscovered by the great Renaissance goldsmith Benvenuto Cellini. While modern versions of the lost wax process cheap lace wigs employee a few differences, such as industrial vacuums to pull the molten gold down into the mold, the lost wax method as used today is really very similar to that employed by the goldsmiths of Egypt and the pre-Columbian tribes.

The Lost wax method is practical for casting both gold and silver alloys. Although it is most commonly used for rings and bracelets, the lost wax process can be used for casting a variety of objects. This method is currently used to create about 60% of all karat gold jewelry, as well as a significant part of all silver jewelry, enabling ED Hardy manufacturers to produce pieces in multiple numbers at a favorable production cost. The lost wax method allows jewelry artists to copy the finest detail into a gold casting. The jewelry produced by casting can also be subject to further treatment by soldering on additional items, etc. The modern version of the lost wax casting process can be described as follows:

1) From an original design, a model is made in metal. A rubber mold is then made from the model.

2) From this rubber mold multiple copies are made in wax. The wax copies are attached together by a connecting sprue. A group of wax copies are attached together to form a what is called a tree.

3) The tree is then placed in metal flask and covered with plaster of Paris. Once it hardens, the plaster mold is then heated in an oven. The wax melts and is lost, leaving a hollow plaster mold.

4) Molten gold is then poured into the mold as the entire mold is placed in a vacuum the vacuum action draws the gold down into every crevice of the mold forming a perfect copy of the original design.

5) The plaster is then broken and washed away from the now cooled gold casting. The individual gold items lace wigs are now ready to be cut from the treaty for hand finishing and polishing.

Now if the ancient and primitive peoples of Egypt and South America could do lost wax casting, and produce beautiful works of art, then so can you - with the proper tools and training. Most of the necessary tools and equipment can be purchased right over the internet, and books are available to teach you what you need to know. Here are the basics of how you can do your own lost wax casting using the pressure of steam.

1) Gold, Silver or other precious metals in a clean and castable form (often used jewelry needs cleaning and melting with borax to remove dirt, corrosion and impurities).

2) A torch powerful enough to melt a few ounces of gold or silver.

3) Lost wax casting investment material (the plaster like stuff).

4) A rubber mixing bowl - it is important to mix your investment material with as few bubbles as possible. The bubbles tend to adhere to the wax model and create bubble bumps on the finished product. Shake or vacuum the material to remove bubbles.

5) Various wax models and extra wax to make access sprues. The jewelry wax material is a special type, not just normal paraffin as is used in candles. It has a known density so that the correct amount of metal can be melted for the casting process.

6) A burn out oven capable of about 800 F, which is used to vaporize the waxes.

7) A "crucible" which in this case is a metal tube, to contain the investment and wax for the whole casting process.

8) A steam generator - usually a metal can which has wet material attached to the inside.

After the wax is made, the sprue attached, the investment poured, and the entire product baked to drive out the wax, molten metal is poured in and the steam unit pressed on top. Steam thus created pushes the metal down into the mold. After a time is waited for the metal to cool and solidify, the casting is put under water and the investment material dissolves away.

As a note, casting molten metal can be very dangerous. Molten metal splattered on clothing or skin quickly causes severe burns. Protection of the eyes and other parts of the body is necessary. Wax vapors can be flammable so precautions need to be taken there as well so that the room is fully ventilated. It is strongly urged that anyone who would like to attempt this process purchase books that provide more detail as to how this casting process is done, and read them carefully. These books will also further explain the necessary safety precautions in detail.