Wed, Oct 22nd - 3:22AM

When you cozy up next to a crackling fire on a cold winter day, you probably don't realize that your fireplace is one of the most inefficient heat sources you can possibly use. It literally sends your energy dollars right up the chimney along with volumes of warm air. A roaring fire can exhaust as much as 679.6 cubic metres (24,000 cubic feet) of air per hour to the outside, which must be replaced by cold air coming into the house from the outside. Your heating system must warm up this air, which is then exhausted through your chimney. If you use your conventional fireplace while your central heating system is on, these tips can help reduce energy losses.

Fireplace Tips and Suggestions

• If you never use your fireplace, plug and seal the chimney flue.
• Check the seal on the flue damper and make it as snug as possible.
• Add caulking around the fireplace hearth.
• Keep your fireplace damper closed unless a fire is going. Keeping the damper open is like keeping a 1.2m (48”) window wide open during the winter; it allows warm air to go right up the chimney.
• When you use the fireplace, reduce heat loss by opening dampers in the bottom of the firebox (if provided) or open the nearest window slightly – approximately 2.5 cm (1”) – and close doors leading into the room. Lower the thermostat setting to between 10 C – 13 C (50° and 55°F).
• Install tempered glass doors and a heat-air exchange system that blows warmed air back into the room.
• Use grates made of C-shaped metal tubes to draw cool room air into the fireplace and circulate warm air back into the room.

Brought to you by the Alliston Home Inspector

Wed, Oct 22nd - 3:21AM

With the winter season almost upon us it is time to discuss the re-occurring ice dams that frustrate many home owners. So lets start with the educational segment first.

Ice Dams are created when you have fairly large snowfall and the snow melts and re-freezes before being channeled away from your roof. This is usually caused by a warmer roof surface than the exterior temperature. This simply means that the temperature of your shingles is slightly above freezing when the outside temperature is below freezing. The “warmer” your roofs temperature is translates to larger ice dams. Non-functioning eaves troughs can also cause ice dams on your roof. Improper pitch or blockage due to debris etc will cause the appearance of ice dams.

Poor ventilation and insulation is the common cause of most ice dams and is the culprit for creating a “warm” roof in the winter months. Heat escapes from your heated living space and gathers in your attic. (Remember heat rises) Poor ventilation does not allow for the removal of this heat which remains trapped in your attic.

So now we have the 3 basic requirements to start building our ice dam. In review they are:

1. Snowfall
2. Heat leaking into attic area.
3. Poor ventilation allows accumulation of heat in attic.

We are going to address the heat leaking into your attic and then the poor ventilation.

Insulation

During most of my inspections in the Barrie, ON area I have come to notice one insulation deficiency that appears over and over again. People, either themselves or hired contractors, enter the attic to do work and never repair the damage they have done to the insulation. Most of my clients have never been in their attics and just assume that all is well. Pot lights are almost always an indication that someone has been in the attic and maybe it is just bad percentages but over 75% of homes I inspect have large trails in their blown in insulation and areas where instead of 10 to 11 inches of insulation, only 3. There was even a popular franchise inspection company that “bragged” that they put a “tag” in every corner of your attic. When two thirds of your R factor is missing from areas of your attic you can safely assume that you will have heat escaping into your attic. You don’t need to hire a home inspector to check your attic; most attics can be completely viewed from the access hatch with a standard spot light.

So I would suggest to anyone out there that has an ice problem, that they first check their attic for missing insulation or un-even coverage.

Ventilation

The Ontario Building Code requires 1 square foot of ventilation for every 300 square feet. Twenty-Five percent of this ventilation is required at the bottom of your roof (soffits) and Twenty-Five percent at the top(peak). The remaining fifty percent can be spaced anywhere on your roof although most designers simply just put venting at your soffits and upper roof areas.

One main area of concern in ventilation is the soffit venting. As your roof rafters or trusses come down to your walls the area becomes very restricted and the building code even allows for lesser R values in this area do to space restrictions. Soffit baffles are used to prevent the insulation from completely blocking air flow from your soffits, thus allowing for air flow from your soffits through to your roof vents allowing for any humidity and heat to be dissipated to the exterior. I have seen homes in the Barrie area that the homeowner has taken the trouble to stuff insulation along their soffits thereby completely blocking all ventilation. Another frequent insulation blunder is people who insulate their garages and add an auxiliary heat source but totally ignore the fact that a garage is built with no ice shield on eaves and usually has no roof ventilation.

Once again a simple visit to your attic will ensure that you have adequate ventilation. Most soffit baffles are either plywood sheets extending down to walls or the popular Styrofoam soffit baffles. Usually they are installed in every third or fourth joist or truss space.

French Drains or similar devices have become popular for the disposal of downspout discharges around homes. I always recommend that home owners install a Tee at the top of their drainage pipe to prevent winter freezing problems. Water in your eaves and downspouts will always freeze at some time during the winter; the problem arises when the sun comes out and melts the ice in eaves troughs and downspouts but fails the thaw the underground drainage system. This is where the added Tee relieves the system by allowing the thawed run off to spill out the Tee, thereby prevent the splitting of downspouts and the possible creation of “ice dams”.

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Sat, Oct 18th - 4:54AM

Here are some common sense tips and advice of things to do prior to the winter season arriving. It is better to be snuggled up in front of your fireplace once old man winter arrives, rather than rushing around repairing items that some fall maintenance would have prevented. So with that thought in mind please peruse the following list:

1) Furnace Inspection

· Make sure your furnace is in good working order. Make sure that the thermostat and pilot light are working properly and that the pipe bringing fuel to your furnace isn’t leaking or loose

· Stock up on furnace filters and change them monthly.

· Consider switching out your thermostat for a programmable thermostat.

· If your home is heated by a hot-water radiator, bleed the valves by opening them slightly and when water appears, close them.

· Remove all flammable material from the area surrounding your furnace.

2) Get the Fireplace Ready

· Cap or screen the top of the chimney to keep out rodents and birds. Check top of chimney for cracks in cap or mortar. Also check visible bricks and mortar for cracks. Have any cracks repaired prior to winter.

· If the chimney hasn’t been cleaned for a while, call a chimney sweep to remove soot and creosote or buy equipment and do it yourself.

· If your home is heated by a fireplace or wood stove, buy firewood or chop wood. Store it in a dry place away from the exterior of your home.

· Inspect the fireplace damper for proper opening and closing.

3) Check the Exterior, Doors and Windows

· Inspect exterior for crevice cracks and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them with exterior quality silicone caulking.

· Use weather stripping around older style doors to prevent cold air from entering the home and caulk exterior window joints to ensure no drafts are present.

· If your home has a basement, consider protecting its window wells by covering them with plastic shields. Ensure your window well drains are installed properly, covered with screen and then a layer of stone. They are tied into your weeping system and any debris could block your foundation weepers causing problems with your basement.

· Remove any un-needed screens and store until spring.

4) Inspect Roof, Gutters & Downspouts

· If anybody has been working in your attic or you have not had a home inspection then I would suggest you have a look in your attic and ensure your insulation is evenly covering your ceiling. You should be able to scan entire attic with just a spot light from the entrance hatch.

· Clean out leaves and debris the gutters and use a hose to spray water down the downspouts to clear them, As long as you’re cleaning out leaves, make sure none are clogging your chimney. Install a screen over the chimney top after cleaning. 

· Check flashing to ensure water cannot enter the home. Check for cracked caulking.

· Replace worn roof shingles or tiles. If trying to get one more year out of older roof, ensure all suspect areas are sealed with roofing tar. The cost of fixing wet insulation and damaged drywall makes this a worthwhile chore.

· Clean out leaves and debris the gutters and use a hose to spray water down the downspouts to clear them, As long as you’re cleaning out leaves, make sure none are clogging your chimney. Install a screen over the chimney top after cleaning.

· Consider installing leaf guards on the gutters or extensions on the downspouts to direct water away from the home. If your downspouts drain into a French drain or similar drainage system I would recommend installing a Tee onto downspout just before drain so that in the event the drain freezes the water from roof can spill out the Tee, thereby saving splitting downspouts and backed up eavestroughs.

5) Service Your Summer Equipment

· Drain gas from lawnmowers. Another solution is to simply run your machine out of gas, this eliminates any problems with Spring starting.

· Service or tune-up snow blowers. Make sure oil is changed and fresh gas is put in. Run up your snow blower before it gets cold. It’s easier to work on when the temperature is warmer.

· Dig out your snow shovels and ice chippers. If you have a winter door mat, clean and prepare for use.

· Gather up your summer lawn equipment and store together in dry area.

· Sharpen ice choppers and buy bags of ice-melt / sand. If your driving a truck and need weight, water softener salt is heavy and you always have it for your machine and if you get stuck it makes a good surface for gripping.

· Many air conditioner technicians now advise against putting cover over your central air conditioner due to the trapped condensation. I agree with this but that is an individuals choice.

6) Check Your Buildings Foundations

· Rake away all debris and edible vegetation from the foundation. If there are any low areas that have developed near your foundation, now is a good time to fill these in. Rule of Thumb for grading is one inch slope away from your house for every 6 feet.

· Seal up entry points to keep small animals from crawling under the house. Also ensure your vents are closed and all your foundation insulation is still in place if you have a crawl space.

· Inspect sill plates for dry rot or pest infestation.

7) Inspect Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

· Ontario Fire Code requires a smoke detector on every level of the home and adjacent to sleeping areas. Buy extra smoke detector batteries and change them when daylight savings ends if your smoke detector is battery powered.

· Don’t Install a carbon monoxide detector near your gas fired furnace and / or water heater as there will always be traces of carbon monoxide present and this will create nuisance alarms. Near your sleeping areas is more suitable.

· Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors monthly to ensure they work.

· Buy a fire extinguisher for your kitchen area.

Plumbing Maintenance

· Locate your water main in the event you need to shut it off in an emergency. They are usually located very close to your water softener if you have one.

· Drain all garden hoses and neatly store for the winter.

· Insulate exposed plumbing pipes in any un-heated areas. If not used then draining is the best course of action.

· Check your furnaces humidifier, clean filter and ensure water is turned on.

· If you go on vacation, leave the heat on, set to at least 55 degrees and make arrangements for a relative or trusted individual to regularly check your house while your away.

9) Landscaping Items

· Trim trees if branches hang too close to the house. If they are close to hydro wires phone your local utility and notify them. Remove dead branches. Ice, snow and wind could cause weak tree trunks or branches to break, damaging your home or car, or injuring someone walking on your property

· Plant spring flower bulbs and lift bulbs that cannot winter over such as dahlias in areas where the ground freezes.

· Seal asphalt driveways, brick patios and wood decks.

· Move sensitive potted plants indoors or to a sheltered area. Wrap your shrubs with burlap to prevent ice damage.

10) Be Prepared

· Buy indoor candles and matches / lighter for use during a power shortage. Lanterns are good if you are in a rural area that experiences many power outages.

· Find the phone numbers for your utility companies and tape them near your phone or inside the phone book.

· Buy a battery back-up to protect your computer and sensitive electronic equipment.

· Store extra bottled water and non-perishable food supplies (including pet food, if you have a pet), blankets and a first-aid kit in a dry and easy-to-access location.

· Prepare an evacuation plan in the event of an emergency.

If you have a tip that works for you, feel free to add as comment.

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Mon, Oct 13th - 9:11AM

Fri, Oct 3rd - 2:01PM

Polyurethane Foams for Low Pressure Injection Crack Repair

What is the better choice: polyurethane or epoxy? Epoxy is the better choice if structural strength is required to be maintained. If the crack is only repaired to prevent water leakage then either product can accomplish this task.

Cause of Cracks

Lack of joints, to accommodate drying shrinkage and thermal movement during the construction phase is one of the major causes of concrete cracks. Settlement and overloading are also common causes of cracking.  Cracks usually appear within the first month after construction. These cracks can leak as soon as they are formed or might expand and leak later. Crack can grow and cause problems as they expand.

How Cracks Grow

Moisture, which is the worst enemy of homes, enters the tiny cracks in the concrete and in colder weather, freezes, enlarging the crack. Also, movement of soils surrounding your home, through settling, can also cause expansion of your cracks. In extreme cases, soils that are unstable can overcome the inherent strength of concrete causing crack and expansion.

Cracks caused by construction, heat, freezing and settlement can be corrected by injection. Cracks caused by unstable soils must have soil problem stabilized prior to attempting injection corrective methods.

Low Pressure Injection

This method of injecting polymers into the concrete is adequate for repairs of cracks not involving high volumes of water. High-pressure injection is better suited for this type of application. Low pressure is defined as injection pressures between 20 to 40 psi and can be used with either ports or surface injection. Pressures as high as 250 psi may be used.

High Pressure Injection

1,000 to 10,000 psi utilizing injection packers usually placed in holes drilled at 45 degrees to intersect the interior of the crack. This is common method of repair using polyurethane foam. High cost of packers, clean up of excess, potential stress damage and dangers of using high pressure are overcome by using low-pressure injection methods.

The use of surface ports (with one-way check valves) together with low-pressure injection of a sealed crack eliminates these problems in most situations. The injection of high-density foam is an effective water proofing method.

The best method for low-pressure crack repair is to slowly inject liquid polymer into crack until crack is completely filled, filling of adjacent surface port is visual confirmation. Using pressures above the 40-psi will allow polymer to rise and may indicate a false presence of the polymer filling voids.

Methods of Surface Sealing and Placing of Surface Ports

Surfaces are first cleaned with wire brush, and then surface ports are placed along crack at intervals equal to the thickness of the wall. The surface crack is then filled with epoxy paste which when sufficiently hardened allows filling of surface ports to begin. Hydraulic cement is used when cracks are actively “wet”. The ports must then be anchored to prevent blowing off during injection.

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